Summer in Nova Scotia

by Dylan Brentwood

I moved here in mid-2019, to pursue my dual aspirations in hospitality and live performance, and despite some pretty notable interruptions - my experience as both artist and bartender has been deeply fulfilling due to the unwavering passion and ingenuity of the communities that thrive here. Last summer, I took full advantage of this province and I encourage others to seek out the same accessible avenues of exploration that drew me to living here. So I have a few tips to make the most of a stay in Nova Scotia. 

Get to the parks! 

As a resident of Halifax, I have had no excuse for not taking full advantage of the green space both in my neighborhood and just beyond the city. The obvious and totally worthwhile jaunt is through Point Pleasant Park in Halifax’s South End. Not only can you explore the various trails and discover old barracks - but 6 nights a week, you will have the opportunity to take in some of the most charming outdoor performance in Canada. Shakespeare by the Sea Halifax has been one of the longest running outdoor professional performance companies in Canadian history and their devotion to accessible and clever productions of both classical and children’s theatre is absolutely essential to the heart of Halifax culture. You’d be hard pressed to find a local who hasn’t sat amidst the hundreds of pay-what-you-can audience members on a cozy summer night with their loved ones and a picnic. While this summer their season is smaller, you can catch A Midsummer Night’s Dream July 30th through September 5th. The company is close to my heart, as it was working for Shakespeare by the Sea in 2019 that brought me to Halifax. After that summer, there was no way I was leaving. I came for the theatre but I stayed for - 

The Hospitality. 

As a Newfoundlander who spent my early professional life in Toronto, I had keenly watched and swooned over the community of bartenders, cooks, servers, and sommeliers that put this small province into a league of its own. I am fortunate enough to work at Bar Kismet, a family owned seafood restaurant with a very comfortable take on new age dining, seasonal ingredients, stunningly bold wine selections, and inventively accessible cocktails. One thing that I feel Bar Kismet does, that is echoed throughout our hospitality community, is champion those around us. The truth is, I moved here to be a bartender because the cocktail community is like a family. It truly feels like we all work at the same bar sometimes. As a smaller market we are often fighting for attention and access to products, but what we lack we make up for in creativity using the luscious agriculture of our province. So if you want to make the best of a night out in Halifax, find a cocktail bar and tell them Dyl from Kismet sent you, and ask that bartender where you should check out - chances are we’ll all lead you to some of the same hot spots for thoughtfully put together cocktails or incredible food. I for one would send you to see Keegan at Highwayman, Stephane at Field Guide, The whole Lot Six gang, Lindsay at Ostrich club, Danielle at Julep, Bryan at Hermitage, and highly encourage you to pop over the bridge to Dear Friend in Dartmouth to say hi to Matt, Jeff, Marika, and Marta. And I mean, I would be pretty excited to see you come through our little bar and big patio in the North End! The bars and restaurants of Halifax give the city a very eclectic heartbeat, and the people who work there are more than happy to send you out the door with a whole other list of options to check out.

Get outta town! 

As I mentioned before, there is no shortage of parks in this province. A personal favourite, beyond Point Pleasant, would be the massive canopy of Truro’s Victoria Park. It truly feels like an escape into a story book. But maybe you’re looking more for the vastness provided by the Annapolis Valley and overlooking Wolfville and the sprawling vineyards. Some of which produce the most elegant sparkling wines you’ll find the world over. Maybe you seek out the ocean and the small wharfs and historic sites of Lunenberg or Mahone Bay. Tuck into a brunch at the Biscuit Eater (Mahone Bay) or sustainably inspired coffee and treats at Number 9 (Lunenberg). Whichever suits your fancy, my advice is to find the time to slow down and get intimate with wherever you land. Honestly, my wife couldn’t believe how many times I wanted to take a day trip out to Lunenberg or Wolfville. I just wanted to get closer to the towns themselves. If you have the time, find a place to unplug and go off the grid. Local options exist throughout much of rural Nova Scotia. Spend a night or two in a tiny home. Take in the simplest joys of fresh air, walks through the woods, full moons, rain falls on a cottage roof, and the howls of the wildlife. The best part being - you don’t have to be more than an hour's drive away from the electric vibration of the city life. It’s worth it to take it all in. 

Do as the locals do. 

When I first moved here, I noticed a huge emphasis on local business. Opposed to the many chains and repetitive signs for big companies, the downtown of Halifax is wall to wall with local business. The people here are resourceful and work hard to make the best with what the province offers. You would be amiss to not focus your efforts on finding the best of the local made products or the artisans assembling them expertly. A perfect day in Halifax has to start with coffee, and we have some pretty special cafes - often using locally roasted beans from Anchored or Java Blend. Some insider scoops on whose slinging the best espresso in town - Cafe Lara, the Dilly Dally - (get a breakfast sandwich, I’m serious), LF Bakery - where you will, not should, also try every pastry you can. My personal favourite coffee bars are Coffeeology - Tell Kay I say hi! And the stunning Espresso 46 in the Isleville Warehouse Market. After you sit outside and sip your flat white - take in the market. While you will most certainly get your fill on the farmed goods of NS through your restaurant visits, don’t miss out on grabbing some fresh berries, apples, local cheeses, definitely grab some of Chad Poirier’s Smoked Salmon from Afishionado. Pack yourself an all local picnic even with fresh fruit, pastries, Cheese from Ciro, seafoods, add some cured meats from Ratinaud, toss in some delicate wine from Lightfoot and Wolfville or Benjamin Bridge, a couple clever ciders from Sourwood, and maybe a pack of mixed pack craft beer from 2 Crows, North Brewing, or Stillwell - You can even now get take out cocktails from many spot in town! What Nova Scotian’s do, they do well, really well. And after you’ve had your picnic of North End wonders from the Isleville Market, the next day you can check out another cafe and another market and do it all again. There is no shortage of fresh options to enjoy while supporting the artisan’s who make Nova Scotia the culturally rich place I have come to call home.

Get in the water. 

I’ll keep my last point short. There are some really lovely swimming spots here. My wife, who grew up here, took me to a different lake every week last summer. I have no names to offer, because you can’t pick wrong. Dip your toes, or dunk your head. The perfectly tempered water will give your heart the refresh you need right now. Trust me, get in the water. 

My time in Nova Scotia has only been brief, two full years, most of which spent working and deeply loving the work I found. However, every moment of leisure I find has led me to immeasurably joyful experiences brought about by the places and people of Nova Scotia. While my suggestions, in many ways, seem extensive, they are just the tip of the iceberg. I have a lot more exploring to do myself - which I will tell you all about! So use some of these ideas as a loose treasure map. If you take a wrong turn, or pull a full 180 chances are you’ll still strike gold. Whatever you find in your Nova Scotia trip, just be sure to tell others. We don’t keep secrets or hide away the things that make this place special and that openness to welcome in others, when we safely can, is well - what makes it all so special here. Come for a visit, we can’t wait to have you.