The essential guide to discovering St. John’s

Then, we topped it off with some valuable insider tips and secrets—such as getting to know the warm locals, whose lives are inspired by the picture-postcard landscapes that envelop them for as far as the eye can see.

How to get there

By plane… unless you like to drive a lot! Air Canada, Porter Airlines and WestJet offer direct flights to St. John's from most/several major Canadian cities.

Do we really need to rent a car there?

Yes. While St. John’s is easily explored on foot, the rest of the province is spread out. You’ll appreciate having the freedom to go where you like. The simplest option is to rent a vehicle at St. John’s airport. You’ll find six companies there, including Enterprise and Budget. Paid parking is available at the Alt Hotel St. John's.

For visiting the main tourist attractions, the Hop On Hop Off bus is an option worth considering, as are guided tours by boat or car. There’s also a bus route operated by local company DRL; however, access is limited in some areas. If you choose to go this route, you may want to allow yourself extra travel time.

Is it true that it’s always cold there? What clothing do I need to pack?

Coastal temperatures are quite variable, but temperate. Better to toss on a few layers and a good windbreaker that also offers rain protection, than to put your plans on hold! Postponing a visit due to fog would be a mistake: not only can the weather conditions vary greatly from one area to another, but a landscape shrouded in fog also has its charms!

Day 1

Morning

• First stop: The Battery Cafe, about a ten-minute walk from the hotel. On the way, make sure to pay homage to Terry Fox, whose statue stands in a memorial park near the cafe.

• Second stop: the Battery. Depending on the weather (and your level of motivation—you’ll be going uphill!), walk towards Signal Hill through the Battery neighbourhood, renowned for its quaint streets, lovely boutiques and views of the city.

Afternoon

• Third stop: Quidi Vidi. From Signal Hill, follow the path that leads to this charming fishing village, which you’ll find yourself wanting to photograph from every angle. Stop to grab a bite at the Wharf, featuring food trucks and an outdoor area where you can sample beers from local microbrewery Landwash. While you’re there, hunt for treasures at Quidi Vidi Village Artisan Studios, a boutique featuring a wide array of locally made fine crafts, and quench your thirst at Quidi Vidi Brewery.

Insider tip: Take time to chat with the fishermen! They’ll regale you with their colourful stories… and if you’re in luck, they might even invite you to hop aboard!

Evening

• Fourth stop: happy hour on the water with Iceberg Quest. From mid-May to late September, you might have the good fortune to spot a whale or two (they’re most active between mid-July and mid-August). It’s also a good opportunity to observe an array of seabirds.

• Fifth stop: dinner at Terre restaurant at Alt Hotel St. John’s, while enjoying a view of the port. Named best hotel restaurant in Canada by Air Canada's enRoute magazine in 2021, Terre showcases ingredients from the Atlantic provinces. When crafting his unique dishes, Chef Matthew Swift takes his inspiration from products curated from local farms and small businesses: freshly caught scallops from Newfoundland, caviar spread from New Brunswick, cod “en papillote”… it’s a sublime introduction to local flavours.

• Sixth stop: George Street, boasting the longest row of pubs in the country. A night on the town, or a campfire on the beach? You choose, according to how you’re feeling in the moment. For those hoping to experience the traditional screech-in ceremony that involves rum and kissing a cod, book in a spot at Christian's Bar.

Day 2

Morning

• First stop: Terre Restaurant for a scrumptious breakfast or Terre Café for a breakfast sandwich on the go, which you can enjoy in the lobby of the hotel, or out on the patio if the weather’s fine. You can also order picnic fixings to make the most of a day spent outdoors.

• Second stop: Cape Spear, the most easterly point in North America. Keeners will want to get there before dawn so they can be the first on the continent to catch the sun’s rays. The Cape Spear Lighthouse National Historic Site boasts several hiking trails with breathtaking views. Constructed in 1836 and restored in 1955, the lighthouse is Newfoundland's oldest. A perfect photo opp!

Afternoon

• Third stop: downtown St. John's. Stroll along Gower Street to admire the colourful houses and head to Water Street for shopping. Two recommendations: Craft Council for 100% local products, and Johnny Ruth.

Evening

• Fourth stop: Quidi Vidi for Mallard Cottage, where you’ll dine in an 18th century building listed as a Canadian historic site. On the menu: dishes crafted from local ingredients, with specialties like Merasheen Bay oysters, seafood and game meat.

Day 3

Morning

• First stop: Coffee at Toslow, in the heart of the historic town centre, less than 10 minutes’ walk from the hotel.

• Second stop: A road trip to Ferryland, 76 km from St. John's, with stops to take in the scenery. June is the month for iceberg-spotting.

Noon

• Third stop: lunch time! Try a picnic from Lighthouse Picnics or a fish n’ chips at The Captain's Table.

Afternoon

• Fourth stop: the Shoreline Heritage Walking Trail in Bay Roberts, where icebergs can be spotted at certain times of the year.

Evening

• Fifth stop: The Newfoundland Distillery Company at Clarke's Beach for happy hour, where you’ll be treated to superb views in the tasting room.

• Sixth stop: Chinched, for dinner on one of the most adorable patios in all of St. John’s.

• Seventh stop: The Ship Pub, O'Reilly's, Broderick's Pub or Quidi Vidi Brewery to take in some live music. You’re not allowed to leave Newfoundland without experiencing this at least once!

A few other tips, for longer stays:

• For foodies in search of a unique dining experience in St. John’s: Bannerman Brewing Co. microbrewery and Nam Jim’s Thai cuisine that emphasizes local flavours. We recommend the som tam salad with turnip, carrots and salt cod!

• If you’re feeling contemplative: Bonavista. Four hours’ drive from St. John’s, you’ll feel like you’re at the ends of the earth. A must-go: Boreal Diner. Drop in for a coffee (or two) at the Two Whales Coffee Shop, too. In August, art lovers will delight in the Bonavista Biennale. Combine this with stops in Trinity and Port Rexton. You’ll pass a number of sites that invite contemplation along the way, so plan on making lots of stops! (Why not give in to the temptation, rather than setting a goal of reaching your destination as quickly as possible?)

• For fans of art and architecture: Fogo Island Since 2013, the luxurious Fogo Island Inn has been attracting artists, celebrities and heads of state. Its award-winning restaurant is also renowned for its typical dishes: cod chowder, caribou steak, moose stew and traditional puddings from Newfoundland and Labrador are menu favourites. By car and ferry from St. John’s, count on a nearly six-hour journey. You can also take a flight to Gander.

• For hikers and geology buffs: Gros Morne National Park, western part of the island. Don't miss: the Tablelands, where you can view Earth's mantle; the fjord cruise at Western Brook; the Lookout Trail, and the communities of Norris Point and Woody Point, offering spectacular views of the Tablelands. Route 431, which connects the villages of Woody Point and Trout River, is one of the most scenic in the country. Flights between St. John's and Deer Lake, situated 35 km from the southern boundary of the park, save considerable time (duration: 1:05).

• For history nuts: L'Anse aux Meadows. Discover the captivating history of Vinland and the remains of Viking dwellings. A 45-minute drive from the site, St. Anthony sees icebergs passing through until August.